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Known all over Japan for the tranquility of its hot
springs, Kinosaki Onsen is the ideal destination for the
weary traveler seeking rest and relaxation. Facing the
Sea of Japan in the northern most section of Hyogo
prefecture, Kinosaki sits at the foot of Mt. Kuruhi and is
bordered by the Maruyama river. The town is a mixture
of old, wooden, traditional Japanese buildings and
modern concrete ones. There are 7 main hot springs, or
onsen, and many of the hotels have onsen as well.
Strolling down the street divided by a willow lined creek,
you will come across many bridges which connect one
side of the creek to the other. This stroll is a great way
to unwind and enjoy the small town atmosphere. Along
the way, you’ll pass several ice-cream shops with flavors
from vanilla to tiramisu to the seasonal favorite: crab.
The area is known for its fresh crab and it is highly
recommended to try it while you are there, whether in
ice-cream form or not. If you are daring enough to try
the crab ice-cream, make sure you are there in winter
and early spring as it is a seasonal flavor. While walking
through town, you will also find a few microbrewery’s
making their own beer. Each has a very unique flavor
and most shops will offer small samples so you can try
them all! Whether it be ice cream, crab, beer, or a very
interesting combination of all three, Kinosaki pride itself
in making its own unique flavors and food.
In addition to the other food, near the ropeway to the top
of Mt. Kuruhi is a shop selling eggs which you can boil
in the onsen water for a very unique and delicious flavor.
The eggs can be cooked to your liking: 10-minutes for
an onsen style egg, 14-minutes for half cooked, and 18-
minutes for fully cooked eggs. After you’ve finished your
eggs and other food samplings, a hike to the top of the
mountain is highly recommended, if you’re up for it. The
stairs are not very steep and there are plenty of places
to stop for a break. There are several Jizo Bosatsu,
small guardian statues, which you can leave money at
along the way and pray for good fortune. If you’re not up
to hike, there is also a rope way which will take you
most of the way up. At the top, there are more Buddhist
and Shinto statues, mitarashi dango, and a fantastic
view of the valley and ocean below.
The stars of Kinosaki-onsen are obviously the onsen
themselves! The 7 main onsen are all a must to
experience as they all have slightly different mineral
properties. Several locations in town offer pass sets
which will allow you to visit every hot spring location.
Satono-yu(さとの湯), Ichino-yu(一の湯), Goshiyono-
yu(御所の湯), Mandara- yu(まんだら湯), Jizo-yu(地蔵
湯), Kouno-yu(鴻の湯), and Yanagi-yu(柳湯) together
form the main onsen of Kinosaki and are known as
Soto-yu (外湯). Many of the Ryokan, traditional
Japanese inns, offer yukata for their customers to use. A
yukata is a style of traditional Japanese clothing which
is more casual than the kimono. It is traditional to wear a
yukata around a onsen town such as Kinosaki. If you
wish to dress up a bit more, a few inns also offer more
complex yukata at a small rental fee. These are highly
recommended for attending any festivals as they are an
integral part of the traditional experience. Walking
through town on a busy onsen night, you are likely to
hear the clip-clop of wooden geta shoes as visitors
make their way to the various bath houses. Whether you
intend to enjoy the bath houses themselves or not, the
atmosphere around them is sure to relax and intrigue
you.